TRAIN TALES

Travelling in Gabon is not easy. Of course, we were perfectly aware of that when planning our trip to Makokou. But we were also very determined to see the Kongou waterfalls, located in the heart of Ivindo National Park. The plan was daunting but simple: seven hours on a train (travelling by night, Libreville - Booué), three hours in the pick-up truck generously provided by a friend based in Makokou (Booué - Makokou), and finally three to four hours by boat (Makokou - Kongou camp). Using three different means of transport implies that a lot things can go wrong. What is more, depending on any other driver than yourself is in general not a very good idea. But here we were, bags packed, Friday night, getting on the train, even though we had promised ourselves that we would never ever repeat the Franceville train experience. Surprises were in stock for us, of course. Nothing is simple in Africa.

Getting on a train in Gabon is a complicated business. Some people (I have yet to discover who and why) must check in their luggage, as at the airport. Then you pass three different control points, where your ID and ticket are carefully scrutinized. Then you are allowed on board. We shared our first-class compartment (six seats) with a big Gabonese lady and a man with VIP airs, holding tight onto his laptop. The train left the Owendo station relatively on time and we put on three sweaters each to fight the air-conditioning. So far so good.

Around 11 pm we reached N'Toum. Falling asleep, I heard a strange noise. The train stopped. Struggling for a comfortable position, I opened my eyes. It must have been a few hours later, the train was suddenly quiet and all the lights were off. Are we moving?, I asked myself and I realised that indeed, we were, very slowly and in the direction of Libreville. Strange, I thought drowsily and closed my eyes again. I was just pulling my shawl over my head when the air-conditioning went off, too. Strange, I thought and sighed with relief. At least I won't freeze my toes off.

I opened my eyes again and pulled the shawl off my face. Everything was perfectly still - the train was definitely not moving, my friends were peacefully asleep... Feeling for my backpack and some water, I realised that the big Gabonese lady was now on the floor, taking up the little space we had, snoring loudly and criticising Setrag (the train company) at the same time (a real mystery to us all). I closed my eyes, hoping that this bizarre picture would be gone when I opened them again.

I dreamed about reaching Booué and was rather disappointed when I woke up at 6 am to find out we were still in N'Toum, fifty kilometres away from Libreville. People on the train were getting restless and started to threaten the train crew. The latter, however, completely unmoved, would only state the obvious: I'm protected and you will go to jail. Go on, stab me in the back. Apparently, there was a problem with the engine and some passengers actually blocked a cargo train that pulled up in N'Toum and demanded its engine to be given up. I do not know how this story ended.

We started moving again around 7 am The air-conditioning was not working, which first made us feel really greatful and then gave me an asthma crisis, as the windows are sealed forever. The gentleman from our compartment spent most of the way to Booué writing a complaint letter to Setrag. When we left him, he was on page four. We reached our destination ten hours late, which obviously must have made the driver waiting for us extremely happy. The pick-up ride was a nightmare, as we were absolutely exhausted and were unable to keep our heads from bumping around as if we had no spine. Finally, around 5 pm we arrived in Makokou. It took us twenty-one hours to get there. Hungry and tired beyond description we found a peaceful heaven at our friend Sophie's. Clutching my cup of tea, I was seriously starting to wonder if those waterfalls were worth it. Were they?, you'll ask. Stay tuned, I'll keep writing.